Jenny Sky Is The Limit

Last August, my son and I embarked on a short but memorable adventure to Essaouira, a charming coastal town in Morocco. We wanted a warm destination not too far fly wise from London, and after some research, Essaouira stood out not just for its affordability but for its painteresque atmosphere and coastal beauty. Memories of my solo trip to Fez made the decision even easier. Without hesitation, I booked direct flights from London Stansted, excited to explore this spot with my teenage son.

The Journey: From London to the Moroccan Coast

Choosing an Uber and bus to Stansted Airport saved us over £60 compared to airport parking, plus, it was hassle-free with no driving stress! The Ryanair flight was quick and smooth, and Essaouira airport, just 15 kilometres from the city centre, so it was a breeze. This small airport has a single terminal and handles a limited number of domestic and international flights from various regional carriers including Ryanair.

After a swift exit, we headed straight to Atlas Essaouira, our hotel. Though it was a bit of a walk from the Medina, strolling along the beach promenade was lovely. The wind did whip sand a bit into our eyes, but the sea breeze, salty scent, and laid-back vibe made it all worth it!

Exploring the Medina: A Journey Through Time

Essaouira’s Medina felt like stepping back in time. Wandering through its ancient streets, I loved every moment. My son, usually quiet and reserved, seemed calm here, soaking it all in. He followed along, eyes wide, taking in the vibrant stalls and colourful markets. The Medina was everything I had imagined: bustling, authentic, and full of local produce at great prices.

Compared to Fez, Essaouira’s Medina felt more open, with broader streets and a relaxed coastal charm. The vibe was laid-back, with space to breathe and wander without feeling lost.

One of the highlights was walking along the ramparts. Once they guarded the city from invaders; now, they offer stunning views of the Atlantic. The crashing waves below, the salty breeze, it was a truly relaxing moment. This walk also became my favourite photo stop, with the whole area scattered with cosy restaurants and cafes. The mix of locals and travellers, and the bohemian vibe, felt like the true essence of Essaouira.

Food Adventures and Cultural Insights

Moroccan cuisine never disappoints me, and we enjoyed cosy afternoons by the beach, savouring delicious local dishes. However, not every experience was perfect.

At Cafe KSOU, my evening took a disappointing turn. I arrived early to catch a Gnawa music performance but faced poor treatment from the staff. Being asked to move multiple times, especially after settling in, was extremely frustrating.

To make matters worse, a staff member made a misogynistic comment implying my behaviour was not fitting for a “decent woman” simply because I asked not to be moved. I had arrived two hours early to ensure a good spot and informed them of my intention upon arrival. No one mentioned that I would have to move. This remark left me shocked and truly dissatisfied.

Despite the talented artists, the experience was tainted. I hope future visitors are treated with more respect. Also, the fire show, held right in front of the customers, felt unsafe and could easily lead to an accident. I do not recommend it at all.

A Hidden Gem: The Real Mogador Gallery

On a positive note, I found this unexpected delight in Essaouira! discovering The Real Mogador Gallery! This charming space spans three floors, each thoughtfully curated to showcase a blend of well-known and emerging artists. The pieces are stunningly arranged, Felipe and I truly immersed ourselves in the diversity of colours and creativity on display.

The gallery’s curator, who is also the artist behind many of the works, was incredibly warm and welcoming. He personally guided me through the exhibits and even shared a special glimpse into his own home, which, like the gallery, is a living piece of art. The entire space has a unique charm, filled with character and passion, making it a must-see for any art lover.

Located in the heart of the medina, The Real Mogador is truly a hidden gem. The entry fee is just 50 dirhams, and for an additional 50 dirhams, we had access to the third floor, the artist/curator own home! which was absolutely worth it.

I highly recommend taking the time to explore this beautiful and distinctive space.

My Accommodation Insights: Atlas Essaouira

My stay at the Atlas Essaouira hotel came with both highs and lows. The lobby felt warm and inviting, adorned with a beautiful sculpture celebrating Gnawa music, and the sea views were truly breath-taking. The staff’s friendliness stood out, and the swimming pool was definitely a highlight of the experience.

However, a few aspects did not quite meet my expectations. For instance, offering more vegan options at breakfast would elevate the overall experience.

A personal tip for future travellers: Do consider staying in the Medina! It is a vibrant hub of activity, perfect for immersing yourself in the local atmosphere. I plan to stay there on my next visit. From Atlas Essaouira, the Medina is about a 25-minute walk, a journey that we found ourselves taking often. There are some fantastic hotels and hostels in the area, making it an ideal base for exploration and soaking in the unique vibe of Essaouira.

Coastal Ride Adventure: From Essaouira to Ouassane

In the morning’s ride was one to remember! Felipe, our guide, and I set off from Essaouira, heading towards Ouassane, covering around 25 kilometres (15 miles) in a 2-hour round trip. The terrain was a true test, sand dunes, rocky hills, and stretches of beautiful beach, all under perfect weather.

Riding side by side with Felipe made it even more special. (Though, apparently, according to Felipe I was a bit too slow!) 😅

Along the way, we made a refreshing stop at La Grotte Restaurant, a secluded spot with a stunning view of the coastline. We enjoyed some delicious snacks and refreshing juices while soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.

While the beauty of the coast was breathtaking, we did notice quite a bit of litter along the way, reminding us of how important it is to keep our beaches and nature clean. Still, the adventure was incredible, and we are already looking forward to the next one!

Travel Reflections

Avoid August if you are hoping for beach days as I was, it is incredibly windy so do not travel this season! unless you are into kite or windsurfing!

Respect and kindness: While the culture is welcoming, be prepared for some challenges in customer service.

Essaouira was a mix of charm, challenge, and connection. Travelling with my son made it special, despite the hiccups. We embraced our time together, discovering new places and creating memories. If you are looking for a unique Moroccan escape, Essaouira offers rich culture, beautiful landscapes, and moments of adventure. Just remember: pack for the wind, and come with an open heart.

..lose yourself in the beauty of the horizon and the serenity of the waves!!

Love

❤️

From

Jenny

Follow my journey for more travel stories and tips! Have you been to Essaouira? Share your experience in the comments below! 🌍✈️