From Coffee Hills to Andean Thrills: A Road Trip Through Colombia’s Cordillera Central

Colombia – Realismo Magico, From Bogota to Santa Rosa en carretera, Nature

From Coffee Hills to Andean Thrills: A Road Trip Through Colombia’s Cordillera Central

February 14, 2025

From Hacienda Coloma to Ibagué: A Scenic Stopover

After indulging in the rich aromas of Colombian coffee at Hacienda Coloma, our journey continued towards Ibagué, winding through rolling hills and dramatic landscapes. Though the 120 Kms route was dotted with tolls, I felt that I paid good value for money for the well-maintained road, which made it a smooth and scenic-windy drive, opening breathtaking views before us.

A Gem-Stay Worth Every Penny

By the time we arrived at Sonesta Ibagué, the city stretched out beneath us, and this stylish retreat felt like an oasis of comfort. With panoramic views, it was the perfect stopover after a long day on the road. The highlight? A well-earned evening at the spa area that my mum and my little nephew truly enjoyed.

The peaceful warmth melted away any remaining travel fatigue. The hotel’s swimming pool, spa, and sauna was such a treat, while secure parking and a prime central location made it even more convenient. A real gem in Ibagué, Sonesta delivers great value, stunning views, and an experience well worth endorsing! I do not normally do hotel recommendations!

Leaving Sonesta Ibagué was not easy, I paid only £70 for a spacious room comfortably accommodated four people, making it a fantastic deal for families or business travellers. Furthermore, the experience was elevated by an incredible breakfast buffet, abundant with fresh fruit, juices, and a variety of vegan and vegetarian options! Heaven for me! And well the rest of the family.

But the road was calling again!

Road Tripping Through Colombia’s Central Cordillera: Ibague to Pereira via Salento

After check out, this day the journey was a bit more ambitious: 140 kilometres from Ibagué to Pereira, passing through the famous Túnel de La Línea and making a stop in Salento, the vibrant gateway to the Cocora Valley.

We started the day nice and early… well, by our own Colombian definition of early. By 1:30 PM sharp, we were finally on the road, navigating through Variante de Ibagué.

Our first unexpected road encounter? A completely unbothered cow casually crossing the road! as if reminding us that in Colombia, the journey is just as unpredictable as the destination.

Our route took us via Cajamarca–Ibagué, where the first of many toll booths, Peaje Cocora, awaited my tired pocket. The scenery was a constant mix of towering mountains, winding roads, and the ever-present convoy of large cargo trucks, their hurried pace disagreeing with our leisurely appreciation of the landscape.

This drive made one thing clear to me: I was NOT going to risk driving in Colombia! When I left the country 21 years ago, I was not a driver. I learned to drive in the UK where roads are wide, more predictable, and generally with a lot less hazards. Experiencing Colombian roads from the driver’s point of view (rather than my usual passenger perspective) was a whole different reality, narrow bends, aggressive traffic, and more surprises than I was ready for. My initial bravery was officially shattered. My sister Sandra, the fearless and highly skilled road trip expert, was definitely in charge.

Into the Heart of the Andes: Tunnels, Bridges & Twists

By 3:20 PM, we were back passing through Cajamarca and heading towards La Línea Tunnel, one of Colombia’s most famous engineering projects. Since we were traveling south to north, we did not enter the longest tunnel yet but could glimpse the Tigrillo Lanudo Tunnel and Tapir Andino Tunnel on the other side. The landscape constantly shifted between rolling hills to deep canyons, making it both breathtaking and slightly nerve-wracking.

As we descended into Quindío, we crossed the Puente Yarumo Blanco before hitting a series of tunnels: Cóndor de Los Andes Tunnel, Mariposas Tunnel, Mono Aullador Tunnel, Los Ocelotes Tunnel and other that I could not catch the name. Each name evoked the rich biodiversity of the region, reminding us that we were driving through the heart of Colombia’s natural wonders.

At this point, Salento was just a turn away. But that turn! A persistent zigzagging road! That seemed too long after a long day, but we finally arrived at 5:15 PM, starving but excited to stretch our legs and embrace the town’s festive energy.

A Stop in Salento: Where Bohemian Charm Meets Natural Beauty

I had not been to Salento in over 12 years, and I was eager to revisit its colourful streets and, if possible, catch a glimpse of the Cocora Valley’s iconic wax palms.

After a zigzagging detour, we finally arrived at this relaxed paradise, buzzing with backpackers, local tourists, and free-spirited wanderers. Music filled the air, mingling with the scent of street food, artisanal coffee, and fresh mountain air.

We grabbed a well-deserved local meal and then indulged in homemade ice cream, and then wandered through Calle Real, the lively pedestrian street lined with artisan shops, cafés, and colourful colonial houses. My mom, as always, made her customary stop the local church, this time Our Lady of Carmen, while I took the opportunity to soak in the atmosphere and capture some snapshots.

Final Stop: Ecohotel Los Guaduales: A Hidden Gem (Literally!)

After an evening of strolling under flashing Christmas lights, browsing local souvenirs, and soaking in the town’s artistic soul, we hit the road once more for our final stop: Ecohotel Los Guaduales.

Located 35 km north, this eco-lodge was to be our retreat for the next two nights. But first, we had to find it, which turned out to be an unexpected adventure. The ecolodge road signage was not lighted up that evening, and barely visible sign leading to the lodge completely seemed to have disappeared into the darkness. Unsurprisingly, we missed the turn! After some backtracking (and a lot of laughing at our own navigational struggles), we finally made it. But do be careful if you visit, as the turn is quite sudden turn when you are driving on a main road!

But it was so worth it, nestled among mango trees and rolling hills, this eco-lodge became our 3-days 2 nights home, a place to unwind, laugh, and wake up to the stunning backdrop of the Cordillera Central.