From Skanderbeg to the Sea: A Journey Through Albania’s Rich Tapestry

April 8, 2025

My trip to Albania was made possible by an amazing offer from Wizz Air, who provided bargain tickets at just £25 round-trip from London Luton to Tirana. As usual, I booked all my travel and accommodations separately, and after thorough research, I selected the Mulaj Hotel in the lively Blloku neighbourhood, a great spot to stay in Tirana.

Day 1 Exploring Tirana: A Solo Day of Discovery

I started my first day with a visit to Skanderbeg Square, just 10 minutes’ walk from my hotel, in the heart of Tirana. This iconic square is named after the national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu, who led resistance against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century.

The square is surrounded by significant landmarks, including the National History Museum, the Opera House, and the Et’hem Bey Mosque.

Skanderbeg Square is a blend of the old and new, symbolising Albania’s journey from a complex history to a modern future.

The mural “The Albanians” originally titled “Shqiptarët”, is a striking mosaic located on the facade of the National History Museum in Tirana. Created in 1971, it showcases the history of Albania through its heroes, from its ancient Illyrian roots to the 20th-century resistance movements.

The artwork portrays figures such as national heroes and revolutionaries, symbolizing Albania’s struggles for independence and its journey through turbulent periods. The piece is considered one of the largest and most significant public mosaics in Albania, representing the collective spirit and resilience of the Albanian people throughout history.

Next, I headed to BunkArt2, an extraordinary museum that brings Albania’s hidden history into the light. For this visit I truly recommend you to download the BunkArt2 app which will enhance your visit with a lot of information as you walk along the exhibition. It is located in a former anti-nuclear bunker, the exhibition focuses on Sigurimi, the secret police during the communist era.

The walls of BunkArt2 tell stories of surveillance, oppression, and resistance. Each room is filled with chilling accounts of the brutality endured by citizens under one of the most oppressive regimes in Europe.

It was a sobering experience, one that deeply resonated with me, saddened me, and reminded me of the importance of preserving history so we can learn from the past.

Next on my list: the Pyramid of Tirana, one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Originally constructed in 1988 as a museum dedicated to Enver Hoxha, the communist dictator, the pyramid was designed by his daughter and others as a tribute to his regime. Over time, it has fallen into partial ruin, but it still stands as a symbol of Albania’s turbulent past.

Nowadays, the building is often used for various cultural events and has even become a popular spot for urban exploration. I climbed to the top, and the view was absolutely worth it.

The panoramic vistas of Tirana, with its mix of modern and traditional architecture, gave me a sense of the city’s charm and, importantly, its mountainous landscape. It reminded me a bit of my beloved Bogotá, with its sprawling city nestled within a stunning mountain range. Truly a beautiful, unexpected comparison.

I also planned to visit the Dajti Express, a cable car ride that offers views of Tirana and the surrounding Dajti Mountain. However, I ran into a bit of a hiccup when the lady at the ticket booth told me it was too late to enter, despite the fact that the entry is advertised until 5:30 pm, and I arrived at 4:45 pm.

To make matters more frustrating, they only accept cash, something I found quite odd in this day and age. While I was disappointed to miss out, I learned a valuable lesson: always carry cash when visiting remote attractions in Albania.

As I reflected on my day, I thought about a quote by Jorge Luis Borges, which I read at the BunkArt 2 museum: “We are our memory, we are this chimerical museum of inconstant forms, this pile of broken mirrors.” This quote perfectly encapsulates my experience in Albania: a journey through a land whose memory is etched in every corner, from the beauty of its mountains to the resilience of its people, and the stories preserved in its museums. Albania’s past may have been dark and painful, but its strength and resilience continue to shape its future.

Day 2 – Whispers of Water and Stone: My Southern Albania Adventure

My adventure through southern Albania began early with a smooth hotel pickup in Tirana. I settled into a comfy, air-conditioned van, ready for the journey ahead. Our guide for the day, Mario, Mariglen Bita, a former journalist with a heart full of stories and genuine warmth, saet the tone beautifully. Alongside me were four fellow travellers, two from India and two from Spain. We were all curious, kind, and eager to explore, the perfect company for a full scenic road trip heading south.

260 km south of Tirana, we arrived at our first stop: The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër). Mario explained that, during the high season, a small tourist train usually runs from the entrance of the visitor centre to the spring itself, but since we were travelling off-season, that service was not operating. Honestly, I did not mind at all. It was only a 25-minute walk, and the views along the way were more than worth it!

Now, let me just say, this place absolutely stole my heart. Tucked away in a forest of evergreens, this natural spring looks like something out of a fantasy film. The water is so incredibly clear and vibrant, shifting between shades of turquoise and sapphire. I was in total awe. It is genuinely one of the most beautiful natural springs I have ever seen in my life. And the best part? Because it was off-season, we had the place almost entirely to ourselves, no crowds, just the quiet magic of nature.

I could have stayed there all day, honestly, just staring into that mysterious, swirling blue. It is said that no one has ever reached its true depth, which only adds to its mystical, almost legendary feel. Cold, pure, and impossibly clean a true marvel of nature.

From there, we continued 35 km south to Ksamil, a coastal gem often called the pearl of the Albanian Riviera. While many flock here in summer for the lively beach bars and buzzing crowds, I much preferred seeing it this way, peaceful, serene, and almost untouched. The sky was grey, and the service spots were closed for the season, but to me, that only added to its raw, unfiltered beauty.

There was something truly special about standing on that quiet beach, no music, no people, just the sound of the sea and the sight of those little islands rising gently from the water. It was a rare moment to really take it all in, just me and the vastness of nature. I would not trade that for any sun-soaked party scene. Well… at least not today!

Next came lunch in Saranda, where I shared a delicious meal with my fellow travellers. The food was comforting and full of flavour, simple local ingredients done right, and paired with the laughter and stories of other wanderlust souls, it felt like the perfect pause in our journey.

To end the day, we drove just another 16 km south to Lekursi Castle, perched high on a hilltop above Saranda The views were simply breathtaking, a sweeping panorama of the coastline, with Corfu sparkling in the distance.

As I stood there, soaking it all in, a friendly local cat (who I named Misifu) wandered over and gently curled up beside me. We watched the sea together as if we were old friends. Cats have that quiet power, a kind of energetic connection, I loved those peaceful moments of contemplation. It was one of those still, reflective pauses. I felt small, but in the best way, surrounded by nature, and that rare peace that only travel can offer. I stayed for a while, silently marvelling at the beauty of that present time.

A day of beauty, serenity, and soulful stillness. This day gifted me memories I will treasure. We made our way all the way back to Tirana, arriving at my hotel by 11pm, tired, but deeply happy.

Day 3: A Journey Through History and Nature – Belsh Lake, Berat, and Durrës

The following day my Albanian adventure continued. I set off with two fellow Londoners for an unforgettable semi-private south bound road trip guided by the knowledgeable Adi from Berat.

Our day began in the tranquil town of Belsh, just 60 km south of Tirana, where we soaked in the serene ambiance of Belsh Lake. Surrounded by lush greenery, the lake was home to a variety of uniquely beautiful geese (though I could not quite find the name of the species).

Their presence added a special charm to the peaceful landscape. It was the perfect place to start the day, offering a quiet break from the more bustling parts of Albania. We sat down for a nice local coffee and learned more about the area.

Next, we ventured 40 km south to the historic city of Berat, known as the “City of a Thousand Windows.” Upon arrival, Adi parked the car and gave us some time to wander through the enchanting Mangalem Quarter on our own.

This part of the town was so beautiful, it reminded me a bit of walking through Bracciano, near Rome, with my dear friend Milena. The cobblestone streets and charming architecture created a nostalgic atmosphere that took me back in time. Here, the Ottoman-style houses set the stage for a truly historic journey.

As I crossed the iconic Gorica Bridge, which has spanned the Osumi River since the 18th century, I marveled at the views of Berat’s ancient architecture and the peaceful riverside. Unfortunately, I did notice some sections with quite a bit of rubbish, including empty bottles. A reminder to all of us: please be responsible tourists, never leave rubbish behind. Take it with you and dispose of it properly. Thank you.

We continued our exploration by heading up to Berat Castle, a place that truly feels like a living history book. We roamed through its cobbled streets and Ottoman-era mosques, which stand as testaments to the city’s diverse past.

One of the highlights was our visit to the National Iconography Museum of Onufri, inside the castle, home to an incredible collection of religious art. The museum’s Byzantine-era icons offered a deep dive into Albania’s Orthodox traditions. The beauty of these works left me in admiration, especially the lively paintings by the well know iconographer Onufri: full of rich reds and stunning vivid colours, this place is a true gem for art lovers.

We then started our journey back north, covering 60 km, with a visit to the coastal city of Durrës. The evening light painted the sky with shades of orange and pink, creating a serene atmosphere.

As the sun began to set, we took in the views and explored the city’s striking intersection of old and new sculptures, including those celebrating music legends along the Taulantia Promenade by the Adriatic Sea. We admired sculptures of Tina Turner, John Lennon (seated), Bob Dylan, and Mick Jagger, an intriguing fusion of stories. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with history, culture, and unforgettable landscapes.

A beautiful day of exploring, learning, and appreciating the hidden gems of Albania. After our time in Durrës, Adi kindly took me to the airport, marking the end of my short but unforgettable Albanian adventure. I’m grateful for yet another beautiful travel experience.