As I journeyed north through Thailand following the train route, today’s detour led me to the quaint town of Lopburi. While every Thai city boasts stunning temples, my primary motive for this stop wasn’t just architectural marvels. Instead, it was to witness the unique monkey population that has seemingly claimed dominion over one particular ancient structure: Phra Prang Sam Yod, an 800-year-old building.
Onward by Rail: Ayutthaya to Lopburi Journey
Opting for the train journey from Ayutthaya to Lopburi, I secured a budget-friendly ticket at 15 baht for a one-hour ride in third class. A reasonable fare for the scenic route ahead. However, a surprising lunch expense awaited me at Ayutthaya station’s restaurant, setting me back 270 baht. A reminder that culinary delights sometimes come at a price.
With the intention of a short one or two-hour stop in Lopburi for a unique visit, my journey northward to the city of Phitsanulok hung in the balance. The uncertainty lingered as I crossed my fingers, unsure if Lopburi station offered luggage storage services. To my relief, when I arrived a small office offering luggage storage greeted me! For a mere 15 baht per piece, I unburdened myself, leaving behind any concerns about navigating mischievous monkeys with my baggage. Joyously liberated, I set out on my quest to discover the playful residents of Lopburi.
Just an eight-minute stroll led me to the Phra Prang Sam Yod temple, teeming with its lively monkey inhabitants. With a 50-baht entrance fee paid, I eagerly explored while observing and “playing” with these playful creatures, immersing myself in the lively atmosphere of their unique domain.
In no time, the mischievous little monkeys were climbing all over me, my bag, my head, tugging at my hair and even attempting to munch on my shoulders. It was a comical scene. Locals and tourists alike indulged these furry residents with corn, vegetables, drinks, and various snacks throughout the day, making them a well-fed and constantly food-seeking bunch. One particularly bold monkey even tried to make off with my hat, adding an extra layer of laughter to this lively spectacle.

The monkeys of Lopburi hold such significance that a dedicated festival is celebrated in their honour every November. Now revered as symbols of the area and a sort of omen of good luck, these playful creatures have become an integral part of local culture, fostering a unique bond between the people of Lopburi and their cheeky primate residents.
The sacred grounds of Phra Prang Sam Yod temple boast three holy prangs adorned with depictions of mythological creatures. The central prang, standing tall, commands attention. Yet, the true spectacle unfolds in the lively surroundings, where monkeys reign supreme. From the ground to the walls, the roof to the stairs, and even the neighbouring shops, these cheeky inhabitants claim every inch of space, everywhere except the sacred confines inside the temple.
Inside Phra Prang Sam Yod: A Lesson Learned Amidst Darkness
Curiosity led me to follow some tourists entering the temple, a decision I now caution against!. The dark rooms and malodorous walls offered nothing of note, and to add to the experience, I had an unexpected encounter with a sizable rat!!!!! hardly an ideal situation. Swiftly making my exit, I offer a piece of advice: stay outside with the monkeys; take my word for it.
For about an hour and a half, I immersed myself in the company of the cheerful primates, relishing their antics while also marvelling at the architectural charm of Phra Prang Sam Yod. A leisurely stroll around the rest of the town followed before making my way back to the station. The delightful interlude with Lopburi’s playful residents and the town’s unique atmosphere etched a memorable chapter in my northward journey through Thailand.
With Lopburi left behind, my next destination awaits in Phitsanulok. Here’s to happy thoughts and joyful travels for everyone embarking on their own adventures! Safe journey, fellow wanderers!
😊
Jenny




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