Jenny Sky Is The Limit

In the bustling and lively Hanoi Old Quarter, situated at the core of a city boasting over 7.5 million inhabitants, narrow streets seamlessly merge with pavements bustling with hundreds of bikes. Within this dynamically evolving cityscape, I found a new friend, Cheryl, a spirited young lady with whom I would embark on various adventures around Hanoi and a few excursions beyond its borders.

Cheryl’s motivation for visiting Hanoi was to film an episode for her YouTube channel, focusing on the theme of “females travelling solo.” We both shared an interest in exploring towns around Hanoi, with Sapa being one that captured our imaginations. My desire to visit Sapa was sparked back in March when I first heard recommendations from my friend Abraham. Since then, I have set my sights on experiencing the charm of Sapa.

Sapa is renowned as one of the premier destinations for scenic trekking in Vietnam. Cheryl and I were eager to explore the area, but our plans hit a roadblock when a local contact from Couchsurfing informed us that visiting Sapa in June might not be ideal. Apparently, it marked the onset of the wet season, turning the terrain muddy and slippery while shrouding the picturesque rice fields in fog. Disheartened by this news, we sought advice from our hostel’s local desk and diligently monitored weather reports in the hope of finding a silver lining.

Hoa Lu and Tam Coc.

The following morning, after breakfast, we made another attempt to salvage our plans, but unfortunately, the news remained unfavourable for a Sapa excursion. Disappointed yet optimistic, we considered it an opportunity to return to this charming part of the world in the future. Fortunately, our spirits lifted when we consulted our highly efficient travel advisor at the Hanoi Hostel. The suggested alternatives: are Hoa Lu and Tam Coc.

We impulsively opted for the Hoa Lu and Tam Coc tour, only to find out that it had already set off due to our last-minute decision. Undeterred, we employed our persuasive charm and requested a phone to reach out to the tour company, exploring the possibility of them turning back for us. To our delight, they agreed! It seemed like another stroke of luck was on our side that day.

The shared tour, inclusive of lunch, entrance fees, transportation, and a guide, was a steal at only USD35, especially considering it was a last-minute booking. We were promptly picked up around 08:40 am by our guide, who ushered us into a comfortable minivan with the relief of air conditioning. With anticipation, we set off happily, prepared for a day of captivating scenery.

After a 45-minute drive, we made our first stop to “stretch our legs” at one of those notably pricey shops. I must acknowledge the uniqueness and beauty of the merchandise they showcase stunning paintings and various embroidery items crafted by local artists on-site. However, the exorbitant prices attached to these items made the mandatory stop in the tour seem somewhat unnecessary.

After a 100 km drive to the south, we reached Dong Am Tien, Hoa Lu, in the Ninh Bình Province, around 10:00 am.

Hoa Lu served as the capital city of Vietnam during the Dinh Dynasty from AD 968 to AD 980. Despite the sweltering 36 °C heat, I found a way to appreciate the breathtaking views of natural beauty, highlighted by the striking high limestone peaks.

We proceeded to explore two renowned temples: King Dinh and King Le, both rulers in the 10th century celebrated for their bravery in the Chinese Wars. Surprisingly, our guide informed us that these temples, built in the 17th century, were dedicated to commemorating the merit of these national idols. We also encountered a few charming water buffaloes peacefully munching on the grass at the site.

King Dinh Temple – A Triumph Over 12 Rulers

King Le Temple mirrors three distinctive areas, it adds a royal touch with a statue of the Queen and their fifth son. While the architectural features did not captivate me, the real allure lay in the narrative spun by our guide, an extraordinary tale of these two kings who, intriguingly, shared more than just a kingdom,  they both married the same woman!

The temple unfolds in three parts: a space for the community, Thien Huong dedicated to the mandarins, and Chinh Cung, the abode of the king’s statue. Adding a touch of mythical allure, a stone dragon guards the altar with a majestic presence.

King Le Temple – A Regal Haven in Truong Yen Thuong Commune

We stepped into the shadows of history as we discovered the tale of royal intrigues at King Le Temple. The Queen, a young and alluring figure, had considerable influence within the palace walls. Unhappy with the drunkenness of King Ding, her persuasive power led her to plot his assassination!.

The Queen’s heart, however, seemed to have found solace elsewhere, in the arms of Le Hoan, who would later ascend to the throne. Thus, unfolded the dramatic downfall of the Dinh dynasty. Amid the darkness, love stories emerge, even with a legendary twist, and I, for one, always find fascination in such tales.

Journeying South to Tam Coc: A Feast for the Senses

We discovered the enchanting meaning behind Tam Coc, translating to “three caves,” as we explored this idyllic destination often hailed as “The Halong Bay inland.” Nestled within the Trang-An Scenic Landscape Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage site, Tam Coc unveils its tranquil beauty and scenic wonders.

Uncover a fascinating tidbit: Tam Coc, already a natural wonder, served as one of the filming locations for Kong: Skull Island! With this unexpected cinematic connection, our journey took on an extra layer of intrigue.

Our exploration continued with a serene boat ride down the Ngo Dong River aboard a wooden boat, covering a 3-kilometre stretch that meandered through awe-inspiring limestone mountains. The two-hour journey, which I wish I had known in advance to prepare for the sun, unfolded as a mesmerising experience through cinematic landscapes.

While the usual cost stands at USD10, we were fortunate to have this enchanting experience seamlessly integrated into our tour, adding an extra layer of value to our exploration.

For me of the highlights of this boat ride through Tam Coc, was the presence of a joyful woman skillfully paddling the boat with her feet, an extraordinary sight that added to the charm of the experience. Surprisingly, most of the boat rowers, including our own, were of an older age, yet they exhibited a remarkable mastery of rowing with their bare feet for hours on end.

Infused with a sense of adventure, Cheryl and I dared to paddle ourselves during the boat ride, only to discover the challenging skill required. Our attempt illuminated the sheer difficulty of the task, deepening our appreciation for the expertise displayed by the barefoot rowers who effortlessly navigate the waters of Tam Coc.

The boat guided us along a winding waterway, navigating through three caves: Hang Ca, Hang Hai, and Hang Bai. Cheryl was thrilled as she could reach out and touch the intricately tiled stone roof of one of the caves! Her face lit up with pure joy,  it was a sight to behold!

It was genuinely a breathtaking journey, surrounded by the awe-inspiring scenery of the majestic limestone mountains and cliffs. The beauty of the landscape was remarkable.

After about an hour, amidst the breathtaking scenery, we reached the turning point of the ride where drinks and snacks were available. I was so relieved, feeling the heat while seated in the boat, that a cold drink became an immediate desire. A local vendor approached us, suggesting we buy drinks for our rower. We agreed, but to our surprise, she also added biscuits and fruits without informing us. Cheryl and I exchanged a knowing glance before deciding it was a fair reward for her hard work.

Upon turning back, we relished the same enchanting sights during our return journey. However, the less pleasant side of the boat ride unfolded at the end. We felt a bit harassed by the rowing lady, who expressed dissatisfaction with our tip and demanded at least 100 dong. This left us somewhat disappointed, considering we had already spent money on purchasing drinks, biscuits, and fruit snacks for her. Her demeanour shifted from the previously joyful woman to a less amiable state at that moment. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t mind tipping but I don’t appreciate harassment!

We came to the realisation that this boat ride has become overly commercialised, with locals seemingly viewing tourists as if they are expected to generously part with large sums of money. This left me feeling disappointed, as I sensed a degree of deception in her earlier enthusiasm and seemingly insincere “loveliness” towards us.

Well, now, recall the lady who took pictures of us? She awaited us at the disembarkation point, prepared to sell her photos. We opted to purchase one, but she had printed a substantial number of them (as we were all smiles, particularly Cheryl! lol). The lady was insistent that we buy the entire collection. Despite our repeated refusals, she persisted to the point of becoming somewhat annoying. Taking a deep breath, we decided to simply ignore her.

Well, despite these two minor hiccups, we had an amazing time because the views were truly spectacular!

Cycling through the town to explore the picturesque paddy fields!

This bike ride was also incredibly enjoyable, particularly because I needed to stretch my legs after being sitting down mesmerised in the boat for two hours! It was refreshing to feel the wind on my face as I cycled through the town.

The scenery of the rice fields and the people working on them was stunning. Additionally, witnessing Cheryl shooting a video while managing her bike added a touch of hilarity to the experience!

Thanks to my boat ride companion Cheryl for sharing this delightful experience with me

“I’ve got a crush on the natural world” – “people don’t take trips, trips take people”

Jenny

😉